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孟加拉纺织报6月刊(TEXILE EXCELLENCE BANGLADESH)

描述:孟加拉纺织报是一份面向孟加拉发行的覆盖纺织所有产业链的英文报纸,架起中国产品出口孟加拉市场的桥梁

关键字: 孟加拉 纺织 出口

RNI No: MAHENG/2003/14851 Posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting office on 1st/2nd
Regd. No. MCS/034/2015-17 of same month & 16th/17th of same month

ISSN 2230-8725 Subscribe Now
VOL. 7 No. 05
For Sale in Bangladesh Only
Contact:

S.K.BHOWMICK | R.K.DEY
106 Ka Box Culvert Road, Nayapaltan
Mothijheel, Dhaka 1000, Bangladesh

Ph: +88-02-9338807
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JUNE 2017 PAGES 16 Tk 100

BRI Will Increase Competition With
China's T&C Industry

It is without doubt that The few apparel manu- apparel making. Similarly, made in Italy brands. materials (like cotton, cotton
Belt and Road initiative facturers in East European Turkey's textile industry It is not only Eastern yarns and grey fabric) from
would have significant and former CIS countries would face higher challenges Pakistan to China would be
impact on the global textile which are thriving because of and such would be the sce- Europe or Turkey's textile faster but products which
and apparel business. their lower cost and faster nario even in small to medi- industry that would be they are exporting to Middle
China's economic and manu- delivery time to European um size apparel manufactur- threatened by the Belt and East and Europe would come
facturing might may leave markets might find them- ing units from Italy. Road initiative; countries like under direct competition due
many existing textile and selves out of business Pakistan, India, Bangladesh to the shorter lead time and
apparel manufacturers out of overnight as China's western The shorter lead time and or Vietnam will also feel the lower cost.
business along the economic provinces develop their low cost of Chinese apparels heat.
corridors. capability in textile and would put up tremendous ....Contd. on page 2
challenge to Turkish or even As CEPC moves through
Pakistan, export of raw

S AG

Technical Textile &
Nonwoven

Excellence

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2 In The Public Eye Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition X June 2017

BRI Will Increase Competition With The Rising Importance
China's T&C Industry Of Central Asia

....Continued from page 1 gradually, would resurrect. China would reach the EU Central Asia is central to be a promising market. For
East European and former China's Belt & Road instance, Uzbekistan, to
Similarly, Bangladesh and CIS countries cumulatively market in just 18 days by rail Initiative (BRI), and is attract foreign investment,
Vietnam will lose out further export over US$ 28 billion thus gaining economic signif- has created a number of Free
to China where short lead worth of textiles. road and offer a price which icance. The absence of any Industrial Economic Zones
time is of prime concern. On meaningful regional econom- (FIEZ). Its "Navoi" FIEZ
the other hand, China would They are not cheap but is 20% cheaper! ic development has been offers wide range of opportu-
have access to cheaper cot- they reach the market faster! seized by China as an oppor- nities for foreign investors -
ton fibres from countries like Turkish textiles are not cheap With the BRI, it is envis- tunity to develop this region this territory is subject to
Uzbekistan or some African like China or Bangladesh but logistically, pledging huge special legislative regulations
nations, besides having its they reach EU within 36-72 aged China would stall the investments in infrastructure including for taxes, currency,
own huge production output hours. development. customs and simplified order
of the fibre. migration of the textile for entry, stay and departure
Iran produces very good India too is contemplating for non-residents of
So, the price competitive- carpets and exports all over industry to South East Asia expanding its economic foot- Uzbekistan. To ensure the
ness of China's textile and the world. These industries prints in Central Asia. For most comfortable conditions
apparels which was eroding would face competition from and Africa by a couple of Indian business houses, for investors, production
China with BRI in place. Central Asian countries can sites in "Navoi" FIEZ are pro-
decades. At the same time, it vided with high level infra-
structure. FIEZ enterprises
has taken a gargantuan bet are provided with adequate
transport and service infra-
to save its economy and mil- structure, labour security
systems and comfortable liv-
lions of job. „ ing conditions, the Uzbek
government claims.

India, Kazakhstan to

increase co-operation in

textiles

India and Kazakhstan are

deliberating upon increasing

co-operation in the textile

sector and exploring export

of raw cotton from South

Kazakhstan to India. This

was discussed by the

Kazakh-Indian Joint Working

Group for cooperation in tex-

tiles during April 20-21, 2017

in the Southern Kazakhstan

city of Shymkent.

It was the fourth meeting

of the joint working group on

textiles.The two sides also

exchanged views on the pos-

sibility of India's participation

in strengthening and devel-

opment of light industry in

the region. The Indian dele-

gation also interacted with

businessmen of the South

Kazakhstan region, the

report said.

The five-member Indian

delegation was led by

Subrata Gupta, joint secre-

tary in the ministry of tex-

tiles and co-chair of the JWG.

The 11-member Kazakh side

was led by B Jamalov,

Deputy Akim (governor) of

the South Kazakhstan

region, and co-chairman of

the JWG. (SV).

South Kazakhstan is

implementing industrial

development programmes in

the region, such as the

investment programme

"South" (free economic

zone). The country's eco-

nomic goal is development of

manufacturing sector and

import substitution. At pres-

ent, the textile sector has a

few state-owned textile com-

panies.

Kazakhstan apparel

exports on the rise

Kazakhstan's textile

exports have shown a robust

growth of over 20% over the

last 2 to 3 years. In 2016, its

textile export totaled US$

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June 2017 X Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition In The Public Eye 3

108 million. Apparel exports at a mid-point of construc- the two years since his first exchange. It was to be a become a central theme of
in 2015 were worth US$ 23.6 tion. In the centre of it all is visit, the ICBC now has five place where merchants and
million, increasing 26.6% a massive new Kazakh- large shopping centres, travelers from across China, China's Belt and Road initia-
over 2014, and in 2016, Chinese trade centre called branches of all five of China's Central Asia, Russia, Turkey,
apparel exports more than Samruk Central Square, big banks, a large hotel, and and Europe could meet in the tive, and at every station
doubled. The government which opened for business a Jiangsu province-spon- middle and stay for 30 days
has been consistently sup- last summer - the first sub- sored business centre. "I saw visa-free to dine on each along the way where China
porting local textile produc- stantial commercial opera- three more trade centres, a other's cuisine and share
ers who try to enter foreign tion to open on the Kazakh massive exhibition hall, each other's entertainment, has a major presence there
markets. BRI is expected to side in the five year history another hotel, and what will along with buying each
further boost exports of tex- of the ICBC." soon become the Silk Road other's products. The master are not only plans for logis-
tiles and apparel from the Tower - an iconic 300-metre- plan called for hotels, restau-
region. Central Asian Shepard states that, the high observation tower - that rants, museums, amusement tics hubs, manufacturing
economies are looking at BRI ICBC is a bi-national, quasi- were all at various stages of parks, an anthropological
as a means to reach the extra territorial free trade construction." More impor- centre, casinos, spas, and a zones, and warehouses, but
remote markets of the zone that has its own legal, tantly, ICBC is encouraging university for foreign lan-
Persian Gulf and South Asia, tax, and immigration the confluence of cultures guages. It was to become a cultural, shopping, & enter-
namely through a potential regimes. Besides, the and peoples. When the ICBC modern caravanserai, a
extension of the China - Kazakhstan government is was announced it was not vibrant international hub tainment facilities as well.
Kyrgyzstan -Uzbekistan rail finally putting in place poli- only marketed as a cross- where all of the countries of
link to Afghanistan and fur- cies and legislations to make border, tax-free commercial the revived Silk Road could According to Kazakh offi-
ther south. this ambitious project a suc- zone, but as a hub for enter- join together. Such "people
cess. tainment and inter-cultural to people" exchanges have cials, 10,000 visitors from

He further reports that in China and 3,000 visitors

from Kazakhstan are cur-

rently coming to the ICBC

each day - which is up from

the 1,500 daily visitors two

years ago.

The ICBC may in fact be

"too big to fail," and may

potentially become the cen-

tral market of the entire New

Silk Road. „

China-Kazakhstan Cross-

Border FTZ could be the

central market Of BRI

Wade Shepard, a journal-

ist and author of Ghost Cities

of China, is currently travel-

ling the New Silk Road, doing

research for his new book. In

a recent media article he has

given a first-hand report of

how Chinese investment is

helping the economic growth

of the region.

According to him, the

International Centre for

Boundary Co-operation

'Khorgos' (ICBC) is one of

the most important develop-

ments in the region.

In his article he states,

"Nearly two years after my

first visit, I returned to the

ICBC, and I must report that

even after a string of politi-

cal, financial, and corruption

mishaps, nobody has given

up on the place. As the new

Chinese city of Horgos blos-

soms into an urbanised area

of 30-story high-rise towers

and a new epicenter for

robotics manufacturing, the

Khorgos Gateway dry port -

the catalyst for a "new

Dubai" - on the Kazakh side

of the border doubles its con-

tainer volume each year, and

the Western Europe-Western

China Highway, which passes

right through Khorgos on its

way from the coast of China

to the Baltic Sea at St.

Petersburg, gets set to offi-

cially open, the ICBC seems

to have worked out some of

its kinks and kicked develop-

ment into another gear the

logistics advantage is obvi-

ous."

According to Shepard, the

project has moved ahead at

a quick pace over the last

two years, attracting signifi-

cant foreign investment.

"There is now a large ware-

house of Senko-Lancaster, a

Japanese-Kazakh joint ven-

ture that's focused on dis-

tributing goods from China to

other Silk Road countries

that just opened three

months ago. Around the cor-

ner is a new hotel that start-

ed being built last year by a

Kazakh developer and a

Chinese partner. A little ways

away is a large trade centre

that is being developed via a

Turkish / Kazakh JV that was

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4 In The Public Eye Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition X June 2017

China-OBOR; US-New Silk Road Initiative India Resisting
Economic Pacts In
For Businesses,

This Means More The Region
Trade
OBOR has ruffled political feath- India's next generation free trade tariff barriers to protect local indus-
Reena Mital ers - some justified, some not. But agreement - the Economic and tries, visa regulations, entry barriers
within four years, OBOR has pro- Technical Cooperation Agreement to investment are some of the impor-
Media reports are rife with the gressed - infrastructure development (ETCA) - with Sri Lanka seems to be tant reasons for South Asian region-
US `reviving' interest in two in a difficult region like Central Asia is running into rough weather. Sri al trade being disintegrated.
non-starter projects - New visible. Lanka's trade and industry has not
Silk Road Initiative and Indo-Pacific been happy with the earlier FTA that A number of such trade pacts
Economic Corridor, where India is China has planned investment of was signed in 2000 with India. where India can benefit or has an
touted to play an important role. US$ 800 billion over the next five important role to play are getting
These two infrastructure building years into the project, whereas the "The actual working experience of delayed.
projects are being positioned as a US has not given out any cost or the FTA for the past 17 years is
response by the US to China's One funding projections. US has moved responsible for the opposition. A BBIN (Bangladesh, Bhutan, India,
Belt One Road Initiative (OBOR). out of TPP, to protect its own econo- variety of means have been resorted Nepal) Initiative has gone slow, even
my and jobs, as the administration to, that make it difficult for Sri after trial runs which demonstrated
These were projects that were believed that TPP helped the other Lankans - import licenses, restric- the benefits of the initiative for trade
hinted at by Hillary Clinton in 2011 signatory countries more than the tions on ports, times of the year they between the countries.
during her visit to Chennai in India. US. US trade policies are moving are allowed to use the ports, certifi-
However, these have remained just towards increased protectionism. cation and quarantine times," said G There are efforts to revive anoth-
mentions by a US politician. Why would the US then build infra- L Peiris, the leader of the Joint er similar corridor - BCIM -
structure that could increase low cost Opposition (JO), who visited India Bangladesh, China, India, Myanmar
There have been numerous other recently. He went on to warn of Economic Corridor.
projects that have attempted to link imports into its markets? opposition protests if Prime Minister
and integrate South Asia, the world's Wickremsinghe "shut his eyes to the A third meeting of a joint study
most disintegrated region. Many free It wasn't too long ago when the problems." group of BCIM was recently conclud-
ed in Kolkata, India, where countries
trade agreements have been signed US, under Obama administration had Acknowledging the problems, a considered 11 sectors for coopera-
in the region - SAFTA, SAARC, Indo- Commerce Ministry official said India tion and integration - general princi-
ASEAN FTA, among others. None of launched TPP negotiations, keeping had sent a three member team to ples on objectives and modalities;
these have shown any significant visit three or four cities in Sri Lanka connectivity; energy; investment
results in improving trade or busi- China and India out of the grouping. recently to make presentations on and finance, trade, and trade facilita-
ness relations. the benefits of widening the FTA and tion; human resource development;
This had prompted China, India and has formally asked the SL govern- sustainable development; and the
And there are several projects in ment for a list of perceived "Non- institutional mechanisms.
the region where India has been in others to start the Regional Tariff Barriers (NTBs)" that business-
the driver's seat - BBIN and Asian men were complaining about. But India and China could be
highways, to name just two. Progress Comprehensive Economic holding back progress of the region.
has been slow. Sri Lanka's exports to India have India is cautious about opening up its
Partnership (RCEP). There are better grown 275% since 2005-06 to US$ markets to China for fear of imports
There are many prickly and seem- 5309.53 million. And India's exports of cheap goods. This is despite the
ingly insurmountable political and chances of the RCEP seeing the light to Sri Lanka have grown 96.48% to fact that in many segments, Chinese
administrative issues in this region US$ 742.79 million, during the same products have already flooded Indian
which keeps South Asia the least of day. period. Meanwhile, negotiations on markets. Meanwhile, Bangladesh and
integrated region. both sides are on to iron out differ- Myanmar have shown interest in
OBOR is being looked at as a ences on the upgraded Free Trade beginning construction of connectivi-
It should be looked as a welcome Agreement of 2000 to include servic- ty infrastructure in the economic cor-
move that the US is now taking inter- move by China to gain global political es, investment and technological ridor. For China, BCIM is important as
est in creating connectivities in this trade. it is part of the larger Belt and Road
region to bolster economic growth and economic supremacy. China has Initiative.
and trade. But why has every media China fear could be stalling
report tried to politicise this move of become the largest foreign investor India-Sri Lanka deal RCEP without India?
the US (if at all it takes off), and tried The Indian textile and apparel
to pitch it against China's OBOR? and financial aid supplier in South India has said it would proceed
"at a pace comfortable for Colombo" industry has been looking forward to
Asia, Southeast Asia, Central Asia, to complete the ETCA negotiations. the Regional Comprehensive
But there are other, bigger reasons Economic Partnership, a proposed
Africa. So how would OBOR alone for India to guard its flanks while FTA between 16 countries - China,
negotiating a second generation India, Japan, Korea, Australia, New
endanger political stability? free-trade agreement (FTA) with Sri Zealand and much of Southeast Asia.
Lanka. The RCEP could provide the Indian
In the end, it would be more industry with an important market
China has evinced interest in an near home, especially when Europe
pragmatic for business communities FTA with Sri Lanka as well. This has and US are visibly slowing down.
given India pause, as it wants to see
to look at both the projects as facili- the details of that deal. This could India's exports to ASEAN at
include, according to sources, around US$ 25154 million, have
tating global trade. „ Chinese companies setting up manu- grown only marginally since 2010.
facturing bases in Hambantota and India's imports from ASEAN during
Monaragala areas of Sri Lanka and the period have witnessed a growth
using the India-Lanka FTA to push of over 30% to around US$ 40,000
Chinese goods into India. million. Textiles and clothing account
for a negligible share of this trade,
Instead, India will focus more on and opportunities for this industry
infrastructure development in Sri could be many.
Lanka, and is working on projects in
roads, railways, ports etc. India is However, there are now hints and
also collaborating with Japan, murmurs that RCEP could proceed
Singapore in these projects. without India, as India remains cau-
tious of opening its markets to China.
South Asia trade integration a far
dream Talking specifically about the tex-
tile and clothing industry, China dom-
A GIZ project on developing tex- inates India's imports of fabrics,
tile value chains in SAARC region has where the Indian industry is unable
also brought to fore the many to supply to garmenters. However,
bureaucratic difficulties of integrating this forms a small portion of the total
trade in the region. Tariff and non- requirement of fabrics by the Indian
industry, most of which is met
indigenously. And opening up

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June 2017 X Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition In The Public Eye 5

imports from China could Lalit Mansingh, a former for free trade agreement only about US$ 650 million. established," commerce min-
possibly lower the costs for foreign secretary of India with India as a starting point Turkish companies have
Indian apparel exporters, said that India's free trade to expand the ambit of bilat- istry said in a statement
who are facing stagnant agreements have reduced eral economic ties. Erdogan, pumped in about US$ 212
exports and stiff internation- tariffs, allowing foreign com- who was recently in India, million, whereas India's after Georgia's Minister of
al competition for some panies to have a large mar- said the two countries should investment in Turkey reads
years now. ket share in India's market, also explore the possibility of nearly US$ 100 million. Economy and Sustainable
but the country failed to trade in local currency to Erdogan termed Turkey as
Textile products where make full use of tariff prefer- deal with exchange rate fluc- "an ideal hub" for investment Development Giorgi
Indian companies enjoy a ences in other markets tuations. and production, given its
near monopoly situation are because India's manufactur- geographic location. Gakharia met India's
being well regulated and pro- ing industry is not advanced Addressing the India-
tected anyway. enough. Or has been happy Turkey Business Summit he India, Georgia begin free Commerce and Industry
to export to traditionally said, "We should increase trade agreement talks
Moreover, we have talked easy markets. our business and economic Minister Nirmala Sitharaman.
a lot about how China is relationship... If we can also India has begun the
moving up the value chain. Turkey suggests FTA with start comprehensive eco- process of negotiating a free The high level group will
One has to see if there is a India nomic relations negotiations, trade agreement (FTA) with
real threat in opening up that would be great." Georgia and the two coun- give its report in six months
markets under RCEP. Every Meanwhile, India's FTA tries will launch a joint feasi-
FTA provides safeguards too negotiations could be hap- He, however, noted that bility study for the same. after discussing the possible
for the local industry. The pening with other countries. the bilateral trade volume is
Indian government has been skewed against Turkey. Of "In this regard, the Joint scope of a potential FTA and
nurturing the textile and Turkish President Recep the total US$ 6.5 billion Feasibility Study Group con-
clothing industry for almost Tayyip Erdogan has pitched trade, Turkey's exports were sisting of the officials of the analysing the sensitiveness
two decades now. It is time two countries has been
to let it face the competition. of specific sectors, while rec-

RCEP is very much in line ommending possible ways to
with the Indian govern-
ment's `Act East' slogan. address them.
The RCEP countries account
for 46% of the world's popu- India has a positive trade
lation and 30% of global GDP
in 2016. balance with Georgia. In

Due to China's efforts to 2015-2016 the total export
actively promote negotia-
tions on the RCEP, it is from India to Georgia was
viewed as a China-led FTA to
fight against competition US$ 82.57 million and import
from the TPP in terms of
seeking dominance in global from Georgia was US$ 24.47
trade.
million. „
However, given India's
free trade history and the
concerns expressed about its
own national interests, there
is slim possibility that India
would agree to the deal
under the existing frame-
work and mechanisms. So
trade experts have begun
looking at a sub-optimal goal
of reaching an RCEP deal
without India. For China and
the others, it would still be
an important deal that would
open up trade with ASEAN
and others.

There are four main rea-
sons for India being reluctant
to promote the RCEP:

First, India fears the flood
of cheap Chinese commodi-
ties into its markets, endan-
gering its domestic manufac-
turing industry.

Second, India has differ-
ent degrees of trade deficit
with other RCEP members
including Japan, South
Korea, Indonesia, Malaysia
and Australia.

The export volume of
India to ASEAN in 2014-15
was about US$ 31 billion,
accounting for 10.2% of
India's total export turnover.
However, the completion of
RCEP negotiations still can-
not guarantee Indian enter-
prises would be able to enter
the ASEAN market easily.

Third, India is worried
that domestic companies
would be less competitive
than foreign enterprises after
opening the market, espe-
cially in the pharmaceutical
and textile sectors.

Fourth, India is worried
that the RCEP clauses on
intellectual property and
services will not be con-
ducive for India.

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6 Fabrics and apparel Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition X June 2017

Waste Not, Want Not: Trends In Five Reasons Why China Is A
Biodegradable Sportswear Dream Come True For The
Sporting Goods Industry

The Chinese are discovering an increasing
number of sports new to their country.

New bio-based synthetics
could close the circle on
multi-blend.

With a growing global population, expected to reach 8.5 billion by Whereas the more well-trodden markets no longer offer unlimited
2030 according to the UN and increased use of landfill as one billion growth for the sporting goods industry, Asia still has all doors open
garments are thrown away annually, the textile industry is looking at
bio-based synthetics in delivering a sustainable solution as well as for business. Here are five reasons why getting a foot in the door of
essential performance to the sports and outdoor sector. China's markets in particular is more than worthwhile.

Sustainability continues on its Amni Soul Eco which, thanks to an Saturated markets in Europe and where sports groups and anyone
path as featured in ISPO TEX- North America make for a interested in sports can find informa-
TRENDS Dynamic mega trend, enhanced polyamide 6.6 formula, tough fight for customers. tion on get-togethers and trips. The
as a renewed efficiency of our natu- In China, it's a different story: first quarter of 2016 saw approxi-
ral resources and technology comes takes less than three years to here, there are several factors that mately 762 million users on
to the forefront with recycling being open doors to new possibilities and "WeChat", about 15% of these from
commendable but not full circle. Only prospects for companies that have outside China.
pure composition garments of natu- long since closed on the "old" mar-
ral or synthetic origin can be recy- biodegrade, unlike most synthetic kets. ISPO.com reveals five reasons
cled. It is not yet possible to recycle why China is a dream come true for
a multi-bend garment, closing the fibers, which makes it possible to the sporting goods industry. Athleisure and outdoor clothing
loop completely. as status symbols
manufacture garments which decom- Sports are enjoying a wider
With the pressure on from the acceptance in society China's young and consumer-
consumer wanting more sustainable pose rapidly. heavy society is looking for new ways
products, the textile industry is look- According to an IBISWorld study, to cast off the socialist way of life that
ing to reduce, reuse, recycle and now "Every year more than one billion the "Gym and Health" sector grew by even extended to the world of fash-
biodegrade. Recycled synthetics have 11.6% between 2011 and 2016, and ion. Of course the increasing popular-
gained ground with nylon and poly- garments are thrown away, thus con- in 2016 generated a turnover of more ity of all things sports also feeds the
ester improving on their performance than US$ 6 billion. That still leaves population's interest in sports cloth-
in comparison with conventional syn- tributing to landfilling and pollution of China behind the USA with its US$ 30 ing, with international brands such as
thetics, but as with all alternative billion market. However, the growth Adidas, Nike, or local players such as
options to the real thing, getting the the planet caused by waste," said rate of 2.5% in the United States is Anta and Toread having long since
high level of functionality demanded significantly lower. become a staple part of people's
by the consumer can be affected. Daniela Antunes, Business fashion diet: Athleisure has made it
Demographics to China. In the last quarter, Nike
TEXTILES Development Manager at Solvay. One reason for this growth in the reported a growth in sales of 9.5% to
US$ 1.08 billion. In 2016, Adidas'
Natural Degradability "For this reason at Solvay we have "Gym and Health" sector is of course sales grew by 22% to approximately
The obvious option is to focus on demographic change. Especially the US$ 3 billion dollars in China.
decided to produce a material which sheer number of millennials who are According to a Euromonitor study,
natural fibers. Cotton, wool, tencel, particularly keen on sports, sports with US$ 28.4 billion in sales, China's
modal and lyocell garments require is eco-friendly every step of the way, clothing, and the whole lifestyle this sporting goods industry is the second
only a few months to a year to bio- sector brings with it makes for one biggest market in the world behind
degrade. Great solution, but the as well as being highly performing, happy industry. According to a study the USA with sales of US$ 103.6 bil-
problem is the lack of performance, conducted by Goldman Sachs, in lion. In terms of growth, China's 11%
essential to the sports and outdoor not only while it is used but also 2015, China was already home to is significantly higher than the 5%
industry. The demand for multi more millennials than the entire recorded in the rest of the world.
blends as a synergetic approach is when it is discarded. working population of Western
taken from the inherent attributes of Europe and the USA: 415 million. In
natural and synthetic yarns is key. "This added value complements addition, China's middle class contin-
ues to grow rapidly, meaning that
In terms of biodegradability, it is all the functional advantages of China's cumulative income will
not a solution for multi blends, even increase in the next 10 years to
if a recycled synthetic is used. polyamide 6.6: "Amni Soul Eco has a approx. three quadrillion dollars.
Instead there has been accelerated
growth in development of bio-based green heart which goes together with Digitisation
alternatives to replace the synthetic Regardless of the country's official
content. Derived from plant-based its high performance in terms of
ingredients such as corn, the new internet censorship, China's citizens
biodegradable synthetic materials quality, durability, comfort, breatha- still find ways to read up on what
have to meet the minimum standard interests them. Smartphones in par-
for decomposition, but also the abili- bility, easy washing and fast drying ticular are used in a more compre-
ty to perform. hensive and intensive manner in
which are typical of traditional China than anywhere else on the
Bio-Based Yarns planet. The communication platform
After several years of research, polyamide yarns," explained WeChat, which started as an
improved copy of WhatsApp, has now
the Solvay group has now designed Antunes. developed into a multi-function app
used to make transactions, as a pub-
Biodegradable Hybrid Fabrics licity platform for companies such as
Adidas, and as a virtual noticeboard
US-based Global Merino, an ISPO

TEXTRENDS winner, has developed a Government Support

fabric made from 64% polyester and One factor not to be underesti-

36% merino wool winning the Eco mated is the support provided by the

Award at Performance Days. Whilst Chinese government.

it is a blend, it is categorized as China's President Xi Jinping is a

biodegradable due to the special declared soccer fan and wants to be

polyester used, a recycled polyester able to cheer on his country as some-

from CiClO that decomposes much thing more than just an underdog at

faster than conventional polyester. the next World Cup. That's why he

Tested under the standards for wants to see the construction of

Anaerobic Biodegradation of Plastic 70,000 new soccer pitches by 2020

Materials, the result showed that the and a huge drive for more coopera-

merino wool used is 26% decom- tion with international associations

posed after 149 days, over the same and clubs.

period, the polyester fiber when used China's President want to increase

as a staple fibers is at 20.7% or as a spending in the sports industry to

filament yarn at 17.6%. US$ 850 billion by 2025. Within the

A virgin polyester fabric will only framework of the national fitness

decompose a maximum of 4 % after plan (which is to be implemented by

991 days, whereas fabrics containing 2020), the Chinese government

the CiClO polyester would have plans to use sports to advance all

already reached 78% degradation in sectors in the country, that is indus-

that time. „ try, state, and society. „

Participate In Indian Textile Sourcing Exhibition www.ITSExhibition.com

June 2017 X Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition Fabrics and apparel 7

Nikelab's SU17 ACG fleece (the same fabric the Amazon Provides Ideal Channel
Collection Speaks Volumes For Vietnam's Apparel Sale In EU
NikeLab ACG Stretch FLC

shorts are made of) and

equipped with spacer mesh

in the hood for full peripher-

al visibility. At the event, held by the completely satisfies EU con-
Vietnam Textile and
the body in motion. Headwear in the collec- Apparel Association, sumers. Many enterprises in
"Errolson put the pant on Vietnamese businesses were
tion includes the trans- provided with advice about Vietnam and Asia often sell
and he's kicking his leg up e-commerce trends via
very slowly about his head. formable NikeLab ACG cap Amazon by experts from their products to the EU via
The volume of the trouser is Germany's Vorwarts GmbH
tested this way to ensure (with neck and face protec- company. intermediaries or outlets.
that it can work in the most
extreme positions," Reynolds tion that stores in a back Vorwarts GmbH CEO However, they can cut down
recalls of the fit session. This André M. Åslund cited statis-
process also informs the fit pocket) and the NikeLab ACG tics that up to 76% of con- this intermediary step if
of the NikeLab ACG Cargo sumers use mobile phones to
short. Bucket. Additionally, two sta- shop online, and 50% of products are sold on
mobile phone users shop via
Another new item to the ple ACG silhouettes, the Amazon. Amazon, thereby reducing
ACG lineup is the the
NikeLab ACG PO Hoodie, NikeLab ACG Shirt Jacket He said the quality of cost and improving
which is made out of an Vietnam's garment products
ultra-light articulated stretch (which stows into its chest Vietnamese apparel's com-

We were talking about pocket) and NikeLab ACG SS petitiveness in EU markets.
summer festivals
and the fact that so Top (with new graphics), Consumer behaviour has
many people have ponchos
with them. We then consid- return. changed and is now based on
ered how we could create a
pinnacle version of the gar- The SU17 ACG collection many other tools such as
ment. We used a lightweight
three-layer ripstop fabric, launched recently on product reviews, description,
added taped seams at the
hood and made sure it was NikeLAB.com and in NikeLAB as well as other consumers'
packable.
doors. „ assessment. „
That's Nike senior apparel
designer Jarrett Reynolds
explaining the origin of the
NikeLab ACG Poncho, which
was engineered for optimal
fit and function.

To help ensure hands stay
dry in the wettest conditions,
insight from design partner
Acronym® Errolson Hugh
resulted in flipping the pock-
et - a poncho staple - inside
out, placing the typical kan-
garoo build on the inside.
Bold, contrasted ACG graph-
ics on the front and back
complete the look.

The care and considera-
tion of the poncho is indica-
tive of the overall intent of
the ACG SU17 collection's
10-piece assortment. "If you
watch Errolson in fit ses-
sions, he's maniacal," notes
Reynolds.

"He puts everything on.
He moves, he jumps, he
squats. It is amazing to
watch. Nothing goes out that
isn't perfect."

Take the NikeLab ACG
Cargo pant as evidence: Its
voluminous, contemporary
aesthetic functionally serves

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8 international trade Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition X June 2017

Cambodia May Surpass Cambodia's Bilateral Trade

India In Apparel Exports With China Jumps To US$ Publisher
D. J. Gohain*
To EU 4.8 Bln Managing Editor
Reena Mital
Cambodia's garment firms to help them comply Trade between China and US$ 4.3 billion in bilateral Deputy Editors
manufacturing industry with European production Cambodia swelled to Venkatesh Raghavan
has eclipsed rival development standards, of US$ 4.8 billion last year, trade last year, up from US$ Bobby Anthony
Vietnam as a supplier of which half will come from the up by about US$ 200 million
products to the European German government and half from the year before, while 3.75 billion in 2014. The Marketing
Union and is on course to from Messe Frankfurt France. Beijing has now given the Arvind Semlani
overtake India. government US$ 4.2 billion prime minister repeated his 09833977743
in grants and loans, Prime arvind@textileexcellence.com
"In the space of five Minister Hun Sen said. regular praise of Beijing's Radhika Boddu
years, Cambodia has climbed radhika@textileexcellence.com
from being the tenth largest Speaking at the Khmer- development aid, which he
supplier of clothing to the language launch of Chinese Production
European Union to become President Xi Jinping's 2014 previously hailed for the lack Suresh Adsul
the fifth ranked supplier, tome "The Governance of Digital Media
behind China, Bangladesh, Competition from Vietnam China," Hun Sen said of finger-wagging over Henry Dsouza
Turkey and India," said Chinese investment in
Michael Scherpe, CEO of A looming threat to the Cambodia had grown at least human rights that has some- Rajkot:
Messe Frankfurt France, a 26% annually over the past Bhavesh Thakar
German-based firm that Cambodia's garment sector, decade. "China is the biggest times accompanied aid from 09375322449
organises worldwide trade investor in Cambodia," he bhavesh@textileexcellence.com
fairs for the garment sector. he said, was the implementa- said. Western donors.
Bangladesh
He cited European Union tion of the free trade agree- That trade was lopsided, "Cambodia has received S. K. Bhowmick
figures that showed with Cambodia importing +88-01711538451
Cambodia's garment exports ment between the EU and US$ 3.9 billion worth of as much as US$ 4.2 billion in
to the EU grew by 14% in Chinese goods - including R. K. Dey
2016 to reach Euro 3.8 bil- Vietnam that is set to come fabrics, machinery and elec- official development aid from +88-01711145000
lion, putting the country tronics - and exporting about tradeimpex2001@gmail.com
ahead of Vietnam. Given the into force in early 2018, and US$ 830 million in goods both grants and loans from
industry's pace of growth, he such as rice and rubber. Europe
added, "it is now probable which gradually reduces the the People's Republic of Frank Stoll
that Cambodia will overtake The figures also eclipse a (f.stoll@iff-media.ch)
India within two years". current 12% import tariff to 2015 Commerce Ministry China by February 2017, IFF Media Ag
estimate, which predicted Emmersbergstrasse 1,
Trade figures for 2016 zero, in seven years. mostly for development on CH-8200 Schaffhausen, Switzerland
from the EU Directorate- Tel: +41 52 6330884
General of Trade, an annual Ok Boung, secretary of physical infrastructure, agri- Fax: +41 52 6330899
bulletin, show that Vietnam
exported a total Euro 3.2 bil- state of the Ministry of culture, health, education China
lion worth of garments, at a Zhang Hua
growth rate of 6.8%. Commerce, said that while and social security," the (intl_business@126.com)
Meanwhile, India exported a Cell(whatsapp,wechat)
total of Euro 5.6 billion worth preferential treatment of prime minister said, without +86 13522898423
of garments last year with a Skype: intl_business
negative growth rate of Cambodian exports played a providing a starting point for
0.7%. Scherpe said. "Europe *Responsible for selection of news
today takes up 43% of the crucial role in developing the the figures. Miguel Chanco, under the PRB Act.
Cambodian sector's exports Printed and published by Dibya
as opposed to 29% taken by Kingdom's garment industry, lead Asean analyst for the Jyoti Gohain on behalf of 3i
the US market." He warned, Publishing Pvt. Ltd, printed at
however, that Cambodia's improved customs proce- Economist Intelligence Unit, Indigo Press (India) Pvt. Ltd.
push into the EU market was Plot No. 1C/716, Off Dadoji
largely the result of preferen- dures and the online said Cambodia's trade gap Konddeo Cross Road, Between
tial treatment under the Sussex and Retiwala Industrial
"Everything But Arms" issuance of certificates of ori- with China was not surprising Estate, Byculla (East), Mumbai -
agreement, which allows its 400 027 and published from 2nd
garment products to enter gin had increased its compet- given the lack of local indus- Floor, A Wing, Gandhi Mansion,
the EU market duty-free. Bomanji Master Road, Kalbadevi,
That preference is expected itiveness. "We have eliminat- try in Cambodia and soaring Mumbai - 400 002.
to end as Cambodia gradu-
ates out of Least Developed ed the difficulties and made Chinese investment. „ *Publisher & Editor: Dibya Jyoti Gohain
Country (LDC) status.
shipping easier," he said. Japanese Companies See LetterS to The Editor
"If, as seems likely, this
new ranking is confirmed by "With our online system, an Dear Editor,
the United Nations,
Cambodia will lose its status exporter can now get Bangladesh is currently in
as LDC and, what is more, the fourth position in the world
will be excluded from prefer- approval in as fast as 24 Better Opportunities Beyond behind China, India and
ential treatment," he said. Turkey when it comes to
hours while Camcontrol only export of apparels to
"Needless to say, Organization of Islamic
Cambodia will be allowed a inspects 2% of outbound Countries (OIC). This is a
grace period of about three healthy sign that our goods
years in order to adjust to its shipments." OBOR are being appreciated in the
new status." Scherpe was OIC market. We should pitch
speaking at a memorandum While Boung downplayed for making more exports to
of understanding signing cer- this segment.
emony with the Garment concerns about Vietnamese
Manufacturers' Association in Rehana Bastiwala
Cambodia (GMAC), which competition and the potential The vast majority of score scepticism from else- Dhaka
was organised to assist Japanese companies
Cambodian firms seeking to loss of Everything But Arms have no interest to par- where about the Chinese ini- We value your suggestions & comments Please
explore new European tex- write to us at: gohain@TextileExcellence.com;
tiles and clothing markets. privileges, he raised con- tiative. Some Japanese and www.TextileExcellence.com

The two-year programme cerns over the impact of ticipate in China's sweeping Western officials have www.ITSExhibition.com
will provide funding of up to
US$ 450,000 for Cambodian Britain's exit from the EU, "Belt and Road" initiative, expressed concern about

which puts approximately seeing greater business transparency and access for

US$ 800 million worth of opportunities in other inter- foreign companies to the

annual Cambodian garment national economic co-opera- "Belt & Road" projects.

exports in tariff limbo. tion, a Reuters poll shows. Earlier in May, Chinese

"However, we are not scared Only 5% of 220 respon- President Xi Jinping gathered

because we are expanding dents in the monthly Reuters with 29 other heads of state

the market to Japan, South Corporate Survey said they to promote the modern-day

America and Eastern would participate in the Silk Road and they agreed to

Europe," he said, adding that Chinese project. build an open economy and

this, plus growing Asean Instead, they thought a ensure free and inclusive

trade, could offset losses. free trade agreement (FTA) trade under the initiative.

Van Sou Ieng, chairman between Japan and the Japan's prime minister,

of Garment Manufacturers United States, proceeding Shinzo Abe, did not attend

Association Of Cambodia with the Trans-Pacific the summit. Instead, the rul-

(GMAC), said garment manu- Partnership (TPP) without the ing party's No. 2 official,

facturers need to create United States or economic Toshihiro Nikai, represented

higher value-added products cooperation with Russia, Japan. The survey, conduct-

to continue to benefit from among others, represented ed monthly for Reuters by

preferential treatment. better business opportuni- Nikkei Research, polled 527

He was more concerned ties. big and mid-sized businesses

about what he saw as more "Japanese businesses between May 9 and May 19.

pressing issues like the high basically have no clear idea Around 220 firms, which

cost of production, workers' about the 'Belt and Road' replied on condition of

wages and the country's projects," said Toru anonymity, responded.

reliance on importing raw Nishihama, chief economist About a third of Japanese

materials because producing at Dai-ichi Life Research firms believed a bilateral free

them domestically was Institute, who reviewed the trade agreement with the

unfeasible due to the high survey results. "Will any United States would boost

cost of electricity. projects pay? Can Japanese their business opportunities.

“To produce raw materials firms expect a level playing A quarter picked the TPP,

for making fabric needs lots field when they compete with despite withdrawal of the

of electricity. Garment facto- Chinese state-owned enter- United States.

ries spend about 1% to 2% prises?" he asked. "A lot of The survey showed 14%

of its production cost on elec- questions remain unan- opted for Russian-Japanese

tricity, but to use machines swered. Under such circum- economic co-operation, while

to produce raw materials will stances, companies have no just 6% saw opportunities in

add almost 30% to existing choice but to wait and see." China-led infrastructure

costs,” he said. „ The survey results under- investment. „

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June 2017 X Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition international trade 9

Understanding Japan's Quality Requirements

Venkatesh Raghavan Level (AQL), the Japanese customers

insist on 100 percent inspection by a

Why do Indian textiiles and third party company. Japanese buy-
apparel constitute just
1.26% of Japanese T&C ers request that all products are of A-

grade quality. They are unlikely to

imports? How have Bangladesh and accept non-qualified products mixed

Vietnam surpassed India in the in the shipment,” he said.

Japanese market? Dwelling on needle detection,

These were some points of a dis- Tasaka said, “Whereas with western

cussion that was recently held in customers, needle detection is not

Mumbai. The discussion was chaired ships,” he added. He further said, inate a testing laboratory, the always mandatory, in Japan needle
Japanese buyers require a test report
by Textile Commissioner Kavita “They sometimes go with silent which is issued by Japanese testing detection is required for all products.
laboratory such as Quality and
Gupta. The Japanese Overseas acknowledgement. It is advisable to Technology Center (QTEC). However, “It is often required to detect twice in
the testing procedures are not docu-
Coordination Department Director confirm about anything uncertain to mented. different directions to make detection

Toshiki Tasaka disclosed the differ- you. If you stay silent, they will con- They are supposed to follow JIS complete. This is so because the
test methods defined with JIS num-
ences between expectations and con- sider you understand everything ber. Criteria may vary from customer direction of the object affects the
to customer because each customer
straints of Japanese client vis-à-vis about their quality requirements.” maintains their own criteria. This is a sensitivity of the detector,” he added.
very unique point to note when deal-
western client for the Indian textile “Again, in sharp contrast to west- ing with Japanese customers or buy- Speaking of unique requirements
ers,” explained Tasaka. He said, when
industry. The first observation Tasaka ern buyers, Japanese buyers require it came to restrictions on hazardous of Japanese buyers other than in
substances, they were testing for free
made was that the Japanese clients the same quality level regardless of formaldehye in certain items. “As quality issues, he said, “They may
recently as April 1, 2016 the
had to obtain the consent of the the price range. The Japanese buyers Japanese government enforced regu- require very small lots that have
lations on certain aromatic amines
stakeholders unlike the western do not hesitate to make necessary like Azo dye,” he added. numerous assortments. They grant

clients who were authorised to take a modifications in production specifica- Tasaka also dwelt on pre-ship- very short lead time for production
ment product inspection. “Unlike in
decision on their own. “This is seen tions if they find it advantageous to the case of western buyers who in and they demand quick response in
most cases conduct sampling inspec-
as slow decision making and action improve the quality. Their primary tion according to Acceptable Quality any operation.”

on part of the Japanese. However, concern is visible quality such as Tasaka concluded saying,

this procedure has to be gone color fastness and appearance reten- “Japanese buyers maintain high loy-

through,” explained Toshiki Tasaka. tion,” emphasized Tasaka. alty to the factories which provide

“Unlike in contracts designed by Another feature of the Japanese well-made products and wish to

Western buyers, the Japanese buyers buyer that was listed was that they establish long lasting relationships

do not sign extensive contracts. They request many things in detail, such with those factories. In addition, they

cover just the outlines. This is as methods of folding, attaching rarely cause trouble in the payment.

because the Japanese buyers consid- hang-tag, and final packaging for It may not be easy to understand

er that it’s not documents only that each product. These minor opera- Japanese buyers at the beginning,

develop mutual understanding. They tions must be precisely carried out but it will be proven that they are

are willing to expend time for cross according to the buyer’s request. good partners to work with you, once

confirmation to build lasting relation- “Unlike western buyers who nom- you satisfy them.” „

Sri Lanka Hopes To Finalise

FTA With China In 2017

Sri Lanka hopes to finalise a Free glad to have participated in the BRF,
Trade Agreement with China
before the end of this year. since it would boost development and
Development Strategies and
International Trade Minister Malik create jobs. It's a historical first for
Samarawickrema said shortly after
bilateral talks between Sri Lanka and trade and economic plans of Eurasian
China in Beijing last week, that he
was confident of a free trade pact countries." The Prime Minister said
beneficial to both countries being
finalised before December. that both Japan and China had

The Cabinet of Ministers recently accepted Sri Lanka as the hub of the
approved a proposal by
Samarawickrema to sign an Indian ocean considering its strategic
Investment Promotion and Economic
and Technical Co-operation agree- location. "Sri Lanka plans to use its
ment with China, under the
Memorandum of Understanding that strategic location and leverage on our
was entered into in April 2016. Prime
Minister Ranil Wickremesinghe who connectivity, to become the hub of
led the Sri Lankan delegation at talks
with Chinese President Xi Jinping and the Indian Ocean. History has shown
Premier Li Keqiang said that the gov-
ernment was not looking at individual peace and freedom of navigation
projects alone, but pursuing its goal
of developing Sri Lanka into a logisti- always resulted in economic growth
cal and shipping hub as well.
and prosperity", he added. The Prime
"Our discussions included the
Colombo Financial City, the Minister said that the BRF initiative of
Hambantota Industrial Project and
the next steps involved," he said President Xi Jinping complemented
adding that China would honour its
commitments. Wickremesinghe said Sri Lanka's own initiatives as they
that the Belt and Road Forum (BRF)
for International Co-operation which shared the same synergies.
concluded recently in Beijing was no
longer about China alone, as every Similarly, the success of BRF and
participating country was doing its bit
in addition to the World Bank, Sri Lankan plans would depend on
International Monetary Fund and the
Asian Investment and Infrastructure the maintenance of long-term stabil-
Bank (AIIB). America too sent its
representative, he observed. "We are ity in the Indian Ocean by promoting

peaceful and non-military coopera-

tion - the five principles of Peaceful

Co-existence and ensuring unimped-

ed commerce based on the multilat-

eral trading system, he emphasised.

The BRF took place amidst con-

certed attempts by China to get India

on board for its Silk Route Project.

Sri Lanka's Ambassador to China

Karunasena Kodituwakku said that

President Jinping had agreed to pro-

vide grants totalling Rmb 400 million

this year and Rmb 2000 million for

2018 and 2019.

In addition, the AIIB would pro-

vide concessionary loans, while the

Silk Route Fund has also pledged

assistance. This was the first time

that such commitments had been

obtained, he revealed. „

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10 international trade Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition X June 2017

Italy's Trade Surplus Due To Its Fashion Industry

Italian fashion revenues continue to outperform Boston Consulting Group chief Davide Consiglio Hong Kong) & Russia combined.
Italy's broader economy, and in the last part of focused on consumer segmentation, a strategic Last year, exports across the English Channel
2016 and in the first quarter of 2017 they even theme for luxury operators. This exercise is more
picked up speed. statistical than intuitive, and is likely to become generated a record Euro 22.5 billion for Italy: Euro
sterile unless a strategy is found that maximises 7.6 billion more than the depths to which they had
That would already be good news in itself, but it the power of data. sank in 2009. This record also boosted the trade
is even more so because the textile and fashion surplus to its highest point ever, Euro 11.5 billion.
industry is Italy's largest after machinery. According to Davide Consiglio, the fashion and
luxury industry must exploit the new opportunities After a weak first half, there was an even
"If we consider the fashion system in the widest for hyperpersonalisation offered by this super- stronger surge in sales during the second half of
sense, including products such as eyewear, jewelry charged segmentation. 2016. This acceleration has continued, with an
and cosmetics, in 2016 the turnover was close to annual increase of 4.6% in December and 7.5% in
Euro 84 billion," said Camera della Moda President "Growth in luxury will continue, but if between January. The potential risks were evaluated on a
Carlo Capasa at the Sole 24 Ore Luxury Summit. 2009 and 2013 it was 8.3% and between 2013 and very wide range: last June, SACE estimated that
2016 3.8%, from 2023 we expect a + 2-3%. To sales could potentially drop by 7%, equal to rough-
"Exports amounted to US$ 62 billion, creating a keep up this pace, customisation is strategic: ly Euro 1.7 billion. At the moment, businesses con-
surplus of US$ 25 billion, half of Italy's total, which already 22% of luxury consumers consider this sider that scenario very unlikely.
in 2016 recorded an absolute record. The fashion important when they make purchases, a percent-
system, I will never stop repeating, promotes a age that is expected to increase in every country, "The customs houses' theory," explains
positive image of Italy in the world and is an and in particular among the Millennials, born after Federalimentare President Luigi Scordamaglia, "is a
extraordinary economic engine."? the 1980s." remote possibility, even though everything
depends on the negotiations.
The January-February look positive, Capasa UK is Made in Italy's fourth-largest market,
said. "The fall in the sales in United States has worth more than China and Russia combined Our associates are not particularly worried,
gone from -4.5% in 2016 to -0.2%, while China partly because the depreciation of the pound
has rebounded from an -0.2% to a + 4.2%," he While waiting for London to make any concrete appears to be under control, partly because many
said. "Japan and Hong Kong are also good, with moves, Italian companies' fears are purely hypo- of our products are irreplaceable. No, I don't
exports growing at 5.8% and 8.5%, respectively. thetical. But Brexit will be pivotal, as Great Britain believe that UK can afford for trade to break
is Made in Italy's fourth-largest export market: by down." London is a fundamental client for Italian
Exports from Italy to Russia are up 19.5%." itself, this market is worth as much as China (with wines: according to figures from the agricultural
Exports are what have been driving economic cooperatives, Italy is their number one supplier.
growth in Italy overall in recent years, and not just The Prosecco consortium cannot risk losing this
fashion, given the drop in domestic consumption. market, as 36% of their foreign sales come from
London. The pound's weakness, a visible worry for
"The world crisis triggered in 2008 by Lehman the wine sector, has also raised concerns for the
Brothers collapse has put a strain on the fashion textile/clothing sector. Last year, nearly Euro 3 bil-
system, but today we look forward to the future lion of their products were sold in London.
with cautious optimism," said Claudio Marenzi,
trade group Sistema Moda Italia president. Bad loans in Italy

"Made in Italy continues to be appreciated in The metals and textiles sectors are those with
the growing countries, such as China and Korea in
Asia. However, we cannot hide two problems: the the highest share of bad loans in the Italian manu-
slowdown in exports to the United States and the
growth of tourist flows from China to Russia, to the facturing industry, according to data from the Bank
detriment of Italy and France." Companies need to
increase their presence on international markets of Italy updated for January. Figures show that bad
and need to find capital to make it happen espe-
cially for medium-sized businesses, said Maurizio loans in the metals sector amounted to Euro 8.65
Castello of KPMG.
billion, slightly lower compared to the previous

month. In the textiles and clothing sectors, bad

loans totalled 4.895 billion Euros. „

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June 2017 X Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition Market Report 11

Price Movement of major products in
the Bangladesh Market in US$

(Price/Kg)

YARN 16th 16th
Apr May
100% Cotton Carded Yarn

24s 3.00 3.00
30s 3.10 3.10
34s 3.30 3.30
40s 3.70 3.70

100% Cotton Combed Yarn (Woven) Textile Excellence is pleased to bring you the Summary of the Market for the period May 2017 covering
Market Price, Trends and Trade Data below:
40s 3.90 3.90
50s 4.70 4.70 Cut here to file
60s 5.00 5.00

100% Cotton Combed Compact (Woven)

40s 4.00 4.00 Highlights May 2017 Market Intelligence
50s 4.80 4.80
60s 5.10 5.10

100% Cotton Slub Yarn Cotton Value Chain pound on 3rd May and then declined to 87.10 US cents
per pound towards May end (26th May). 'A' Index was at
30s 3.80 3.80 Cotton 78.55 US Cents in December 2016 end and was at 69.55
34s 4.10 4.10 US cents per pound in December 2015 end.
40s 4.60 4.60 Indian Cotton Scenario:
India's local cotton prices witnessed a fluctuating Yarn Sector:
5%,10%, 15% Gray Melange Yarn On the yarn front, cotton yarn prices continue to
trend during the month of May. Though the fiber prices
24s 3.50 3.50 have eased in the first fortnight of the month, the trend remain strong backed by higher cotton prices. The mar-
30s 3.60 3.60 reversed in the second fortnight backed by improved ket witnessed that the buyers have adjusted to the ele-
34s 3.80 3.80 demand for good quality fiber. While Indian spinning vated yarn prices and the traded volumes have grown.
40s 4.20 4.20 mills have imported record volume of raw cotton during The demand for cotton yarn may remain steady in the
the current season (nearly 3 million bales of 170 kg coming month.
100% Viscose Yarn equivalent till April which itself is a record. Previous high
was 2.5 million bales during the 2001-02 cotton sea- Cotlook 'A' Index: 87.10 (As on 26th May 2017)
24s 3.60 3.50 son.), it seems the industry has appetite for more. The
30s 3.80 3.70 demand for cotton and cotton yarn has improved but Polyester Value Chain
34s 3.90 3.80 availability of good quality cotton has significantly
40s 4.30 4.20 declined. Consequently, It has led to rising of fiber Polyester Chips (PET Chips)
prices again. As the cotton arrival has ceased and fresh
Polyester Yarn cultivation has started, it is assumed that traders will PET chips prices witnessed marginal decline in line
hold on to their stock of cotton. To sum up, despite pro- with raw material prices during May. It is expected the
30s P/V (70:30) 3.30 3.20 ducing excess cotton, the availability is an issue which raw material price scenario would not change drastically
30s (50:50 Cot/Modal) 4.40 4.30 has helped the prices to move north. Current domestic in the short term and PET chips price would also follow
30s CVC (60:40 P/C) 3.20 3.20 price for benchmark Shankar-6 variety is around Rs. the same trend. The demand for the commodity is slack
30s CVC (80:20 C/P) 3.60 3.60 42900 per candy (355.6kg, on 26th May 2017) which and procurement is mostly need based. Therefore,
30s CVC (65:35 P/C) 3.20 3.20 equivalent to April end prices. During mid-May cotton prices of PET chips would be governed by cost support
prices softened to Rs. 41800 per candy. from raw materials. Current Water Bottle Grade PET
Other Raw Materials chips offer prices are around US$ 905-910 per MT FOB
Global Cotton Scenario: China. Deals were done around US$ 900 - 905 per MT
75 DEN/34F DTY 1.60 1.60 On the global front, cotton prices remained strong FOB China. Fiber grade chips quoted prices are around
100 DEN/34F DTY 1.50 1.50 US$ 880-890 per MT FOB Korea. Chips prices are
150 DEN/34F DTY 1.40 1.40 but prices were volatile and declined a few notches as expected to move in line with raw material prices in the
1.4 DEN PSF 1.08 1.08 prediction of bumper crop by the USA hit the market. It coming weeks.
1.5 DEN VSF 1.88 1.85 is estimated that the USA's cotton harvest will be the
largest since the last 10 years during the upcoming sea- Polyester Staple Fiber (PSF)
Price Movement of major products in son. However, current demand seems to be strong from
the Indian Market in ` / kg the export markets which mean that cotton prices would PSF export offer prices remained stable during first
not decline too low. Besides, this month USDA has made half of May but cost pressure increased towards the sec-
Products Date Date Var the forecast available for the 2017-18 cotton season. It ond half of the month. There were changes in the poly-
% indicates a substantial increase in production and con- ester raw material prices towards second half of May and
(Price/kg) 28th 28th sumption of the fiber. USDA's forecast for upcoming sea- therefore, there are chances of price hike in the coming
Apr May son indicates that world cotton production will be at weeks. Also, PTA availability might be an issue in the
PFY 113.2 million bales up from current seasons' estimates coming weeks though demand supply is balanced at this
93 93 0.0 of 105.9 million bales (of 480 lb). Consumption esti- moment. On the other hand, demand for PSF has been
POY 130/34 107 107 0.0 mates increased to 115.8 million bales from current sea- improving gradually and plant operating rates are mod-
FDY 70/34 sons' 113.2 million bales while ending stock to decline to erately high. Though the inventory level of the fiber has
87.1 million bales (from current season's 89.5 million been growing, it is under manageable level and thus,
80 intermingled* 103 103 0.0 bales. there might be some upward price corrections in PSF in
the coming month. However, any hike in fiber price
80 Tex* 101 101 0.0 To look at the price trend, 'A' index witnessed some would depend on raw material price movements and
fluctuations and declined towards the month end. The crude oil values. In Chinese local markets, trading activ-
150 intermingled* 96 96 0.0 index touched this seasons' high of 89.1 US cents per

150 Tex* 95 95 0.0

PSF

1.4 Den 86 85 1.2L
86.5 86 0.6L
1.2 Den

Acrylic Staple Fiber

1.5 Den 170 170 0.0

3 Den 168 168 0.0

Viscose

1.2 Den 145 145 0.0

1.4 Den 143 143 0.0

Indian Cotton price ` / Candy*

*1 candy=355.62 kgs

H4/ Mech1 41500 41700 0.5K
ICS-105#

Shanker 6 42900 42900 0.0
ICS-105#

# Standards by Cotton Association of India

Indian Spun Yarn* price ` / kg

30s P/C 215 218 1.4K
40s P/C 234 236 0.9K
30s P/V 200 200
40s P/V 220 220 0.0

0.0

20s Carded 182 180 1.1L
cotton

30s Carded 194 192 1.0L ...Contd. on Page. 12
cotton

40s Carded 212 210 0.9L
cotton

40s Cotton 240 236 1.7L Market Intelligence Reports are published fortnightly covering market dynamics of the major products’ value-chain in the international and
combed domestic markets. Post queries to us on 022-22017013 or contact us on 022-22017061-62 or email at Gohain@TextileExcellence.com

60s Cotton 286 282 1.4L Exchange US$ Sterling £: Euro €: Jap ¥: Ind `: Aus $: Can $ : H.K $: Rus.Ruble: Sing $:
combed Rates: 80.64 102.62 90.08 0.72 1.25 60.03 60.03 10.35 1.41 58.30

* Including Duty

1 US$ = ` 64.32 = 80.64 Taka

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12 Market Report Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition X June 2017

Comparison of Chinese, Indian and Bangladeshi local market prices of Major Products in May 2017 Highlights

Chinese Price Indian Price Bangladesh Price

Products RMB/ MT Equivalent US$/MT INR/MT Equivalent US$/MT BDT/MT Equivalent US$/MT Ample Supply Of
Cotton In Coming
Polyester DTY 150 D 9200 1369 107000 1664 258048 3200 Season Might
Disrupt Global
Polyester FDY 70 D 9130 1359 104000 1617 112896 1400 Demand Situation

PSF 1.4 D 7580 1128 85000 1322 87091 1080
VSF 1.4 D 14860 2211 143000 2223 149184 1850
Cotton fiber (28/29 mm) 16075 2392 152560 2372 154829 1920

24's Combed Cotton Knitting 22900 3408 212000 3296 241920 3000

30's Combed Cotton Knitting 24250 3609 218000 3389 249984 3100 At a global level cotton
farmers have been
incentivized to produce
more yields because of the

Highlights Market Intelligence high prices the crop fetches

May 2017 in the market and this has

resulted in the global cotton

markets being flooded with

.... Contd from Page. 11 cotton. In addition, China

which is relying on its inven-

ities for PSF has witnessed improvement during the fort- tory of stocked cotton is
night and fiber prices have witnessed upward trend. In
Indian local markets, PSF prices were stable and may wit- offloading the excess cotton
ness a price rollover in the coming weeks. Current offered
price for 1.4 denier raw white semi dull PSF is around US$ in the markets.
1.04 - 1.06 FOB China/Taiwan. CNF Bangladesh prices are
around US$ 1.09 - 1.12 per kg. Prices of PSF are expect- According to an estimate
ed to witness some corrections in the coming weeks.
made by the US department
POY, PTY & Flat Yarn
of Agriculture (USDA) there
Polyester Filament Yarn prices which remained stable
in first half of May, witnessed marginal price hike backed will be a record output of cot-
by cost support during second half. The polyester raw
material prices have compelled the filament yarn produc- ton supply in the season
ers to revise prices. Besides, demand for filament yarn
has improved and plant operating rates are well above beginning from August 1
80% of the rated capacity. However, the inventory has
been under manageable level. This has provided ground 2017, outside of China. The
for healthy traded volume and marginal price. The current
scenario is expected to prevail for few more weeks which output is expected to climb
means, PFY prices might witness further upward trend.
However, raw material prices and crude oil values would by a steep 6.9%. At present
define the yarn price movements. Prices of PFY in Chinese
local markets have increased marginally during the fort- the biggest exporters of cot-
night while Indian markets witnessed a stable price
regime. Current quoted price for 115D/36F POY is US$ 70D/24F Nylon DTY is in the range of US$ 2.66-2.68 per ton are the U.S. farmers.
1.01-1.02/kg FOB China/Taiwan, 150D/48F POY price is kg FOB China whereas Nylon FDY of 70D/24F quoted US$
US$ 0.89-0.90/kg FOB, whereas 75D/36F DTY price is 2.44-2.45 per kg FOB Far East Asia. Nylon filament yarn They are expected to garner
US$ 1.43-1.45/kg and 75D/72F FDY price is US$ 1.01 - prices are expected to witness stable trend in the coming
1.02/kg FOB China/Taiwan. PFY market forecast indicates weeks. the biggest harvest in a
that yarn prices would witness marginal corrections as
raw material prices have changed. Viscose Value Chain decade. Other top growers

Acrylic Value Chain Pulp like India and Australia are

Acrylic Staple Fiber (ASF) RGWP prices continued with the downward correction also expected to perform
throughout the month of May. Offered price for high qual-
Acrylic fiber prices remained steady during May. ity RGWP was around US$ 930 - 940 per MT and regular well on this count and come
Demand for ASF has witnessed slackness but higher cost grade imported hard wood RGWP prices were about US$
support helped the fiber prices to remain stable. Since, 835-840 per MT towards the month end. However, trad- out with a bumper crop.
raw material prices are dwindling, acrylic fiber prices ed prices have been well below the offered prices. Pulp
should witness price correction. Current offered price for prices are expected to witness further corrections in the In the previous year, cot-
regular 3 den fiber is around US$ 1.95 - 2.0 per kg FOB coming month.
Taiwan. Offers for 3 den bright ASF tow and anti-pilling ton futures registered a spurt
1.5 den tow were at US$ 1.98 - 2.04/kg and US$ 2.05- Viscose Staple Fiber (VSF)
2.18/kg respectively. ASF prices are expected to witness of 12% that prompted the
some negative corrections in the coming weeks. Viscose fiber price weakened during May amid weak
demand and higher inventory. Fiber prices in Chinese farmers to plant more areas
local markets have declined significantly and many sup-
pliers are offering lower price to get rid of high inventory. of farmland under cotton.
Prices in the Indian VSF market remained stable as the
market is pretty much protected by anti-dumping duty This coupled with no signs of
but prices may decline. Current offered price for 1.4
denier fiber is around US$ 1.76-1.84 per kg FOB originat- let up on China offloading its
ing from China and offers originating from Indonesia are
around US$ 1.82-1.90 per kg. VSF prices are expected to inventory in the global mar-
witness some negative corrections in the coming month.
kets, leads to a situation

where supply of cotton is

ample in the markets. The

situation warrants that in the

season beginning August

2017, there will be monthly

losses. To sum up, the supply

side will remain ample in the

near future whereas on the

demand side, there has been

a downgrade to China’s debt.

This has raised concerns

over global demand. „

Cotton Yarn price

Product 28 28 28 28
Feb Mar Apr May
2017 2017 2017 2017

Nylon Value Chain 20/1 KW 2.55 2.65 2.65 2.75

Nylon Filament Yarn (NFY) 30/1 KH 2.85 2.95 2.95 3.05

Nylon filament yarn prices declined further in line with 20/1 CH 2.85 2.98 2.98 3.10
the raw material prices during May. It is assumed that the
yarn prices have touched the bottom and might stabilise. 30/1 CH 3.15 3.40 3.40 3.50
However, its raw material Caprolactam prices have not 40/1 CH 3.45 3.65 3.65 3.75
stopped falling yet. The demand for nylon yarn which wit-
nessed some upward trend at lower price level dried up 40/1 CW 3.50 3.72 3.72 3.80
during the latter half of the month. Current offer prices of
KW: Carded Weaving;
KH: Carded Knitting:
CW: Combed Weaving;
CH: Combed Knitting;
“All the prices are in US$/kg FOB
Indian Ports for L/C at Sight
"Above mentioned prices are indicative
& we do not take responsibility of any
business transaction at these rates.

For Subscription contact:
Textile Excellence
711, The Summit Business Bay, WEH
Metro Station, Opp Cinemax, Andheri (E).
Mumbai - 400093
Tel: +91 022 26820284/86/87/88
Gohain@TextileExcellence.com

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June 2017 X Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition At The Venue 13

ITMA 2019 Organisers Throw Open Customer Event Jointly Organised By
The Floor For Booking Exhibition A.T.E Enterprises & Savio India Gets
Space From May 4 Good Response From Customers

Applications to book exhibition in the fibre and yarn exhibit sector. The ‘Customer Day’ event jointly ship in global markets with special
space at ITMA 2019 opened organised by A.T.E. Enterprises focus on the new generation auto-
recently on May 4. It’s the In addition, digital and screen print- Private Ltd and Savio India Ltd matic winder Eco PulsarS.
world's largest textile and garment
technology exhibition. The exhibi- ing inks have been classified in the He explained the technical superi-
tion, which has been held every four ority of the machine that has revolu-
years since 1951, showcases the printing chapter. This will allow ink in Nagpur as well as Bhopal on April 5 tionised the concept of winding, with
entire textile and garment making features such as its flexicycle, tension
manufacturing chain, as well as raw producers to be in the same hall as and April 8, based on new develop- control system and controlled cut
materials. ITMA 2019 will be held system for optimum productivity,
from 20 to 26 June at Fira de printing machinery manufacturers so ments in winders & twisters evoked a suction on demand system for signif-
Barcelona, Gran Via venue. icant power saving. Savio India Sales
that visitors can easily source tech- good response from their customers. Director Shrikant Gajabi gave a
As the most established industry
exhibition, ITMA's owner, CEMATEX - nology and consumables. A new Events at both locations witnessed Mr DeCarli presenting to the customers in Nagpur
the European Committee of Textile
service introduced for the benefit of enthusiastic participation by more detailed presentation on its range of
Machinery Manufacturers - constant- twisters. Savio’s twisters named
ly reviews its index of products to machinery buyers is leasing and than 300 customers and delegates Sirius and Cosmos are very popular in
ensure its relevance and continuous- India due to their higher production
ly improve visitor experience. financing services, according to ITMA representing major textile mills like rates at lower power consumption.

Fritz P. Mayer, president of CEMA- Services, the organizer of ITMA Raymond, Morarjee, Gimatex, Moreover, these machines are
TEX, explained: "A core value of capable of running low twist yarns
ITMA is to be relevant to the textile 2019. Bhagirath, Peevee Textiles, with ease. The twisters and the add-
and garment making industry and on item, Lycra Flyer, for processing
end-users. As such, we are always A. E. Roberts, managing director Suryalakshami, Wankhede, Lycra yarn on twister generated lot of
exploring new ways to reinvent and interest amongst the audience. „
to make our platform vital to all of ITMA Services, commented, "We Indoworth, Finlays, Visaka Industries,
stakeholders by offering an integrat-
ed sourcing experience. More impor- have taken a comprehensive Vardhman, Trident, Anant Spinning,
tantly, during every ITMA, manufac-
turers are able to have meaningful approach in ensuring the index of Nahar Spinning, SEL Manufacturing,
discussions with their partners and
customers on innovative ideas that products will be extremely useful to Oswal Woollen, Sagar Manufacturing,
offer users a competitive advantage.”
manufacturers as the global business Bhaskar Industries, Wearit, New
At ITMA 2011 a new fibre and
yarn sector was introduced, and this environment remains challenging. Bhopal Textile, Moenus, and Hind
was favorably received by visitors
who could source their raw materials The launch of ITMA 2019 space Spinners. The question and answer
at the show.
application has been eagerly awaited session at the end of each event
Due to the favorable response
received from fibre and yarn by textile machinery manufacturers showed the keen interest of the par-
exhibitors and visitors at the last two
ITMA shows, ITMA 2019 will include and raw material producers. We have ticipants in the Savio range of prod-
woven, nonwoven and knitted fabrics
received a lot of enquiries from past ucts. A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt Ltd

exhibitors and interested manufac- Director G V Aras welcomed the

turers who have not taken part in guests with a brief overview of the

ITMA before. This augurs well for tie-up between A.T.E. and Savio, fol-

ITMA 2019.” lowed by an introduction of the Savio

Han Bekke, president of Group by Savio India Managing

International Apparel Federation, Director Dr Franco Bonello. Savio’s

said: "ITMA is a very established tex- Regional Sales Vice President Valter

tile machinery exhibition but over the De Carli gave a detailed presentation

years, the exhibition show profile has about the company’s market leader-

evolved in keeping with industry

trends and challenges. It now fea-

tures the entire textile and garment

making production chain, including

raw materials.” "Hence, our IAF

members who represent the world's

leading brands and apparel makers

find it an excellent sourcing platform.

As we look for innovative solutions to

offer consumers exciting products

made in a sustainable way, we are

glad to be able to explore new mate-

rials and technologies in one location

at ITMA 2019,” he added. „

ShanghaiTex 2017 To Conduct Smart

Textile Design Competition During Its

November Expo

ShanghaiTex 2017 which will designers to combine original ideas
feature the world’s latest smart
textile technology is slated to with high-tech textile.

The judging panels will consist of

be held between November 27 and institute professor, designer, industry

30 at Pudong, Shanghai. The expo professionals, and expert from textile

organisers will cooperate with The machinery enterprise etc. And the

Hong Kong Polytechnic University, evaluation criteria will mainly focus

Shanghai University of Engineering on six factors: integration of wear-

Science, Zhejiang Sci-tech able technology and textile product,

University, and a well-known wear- application of smart technology, mar-

able technology company to present ket potential, functionality, aesthet-

the “Wearable Technology X Textile ics, & innovation.

Design Competition." The final assessment and award

The expo aims at achieving the ceremony will be held at ShanghaiTex

integration of technology, fashion and 2017 on show opening day. The five

creativity. Worldwide students and finalists will be invited to present and

designers of or under age 30 from showcase their work on-site to world-

textile, fashion, product, electronics, wide textile industry insiders. The

engineering or other related fields competition winner may be offered a

have been invited to participate in 6-week internship by one of the

the competition in a big way. judges, wearable technology compa-

The central theme of the competi- ny Antelope, at its Germany head-

tion is to design a piece of smart tex- quarter. The design competition is

tile product that can improve the life expected to form a bridge between

of people through integration of textile and emerging technology

wearable technology and textile. The industry for mutual communication

competition intends to encourage and development. „

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14 Techspeak Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition X June 2017

Marzoli Highlights The Technological Marvels Of frames is automation espe-
cially on doffing since doff is
FT6E And FT7E Models costly, frequent, has a quite-
important negative influence
The Marzoli engineers material, cylinders with a rovings lay parallel to one spindlage and dimension of on efficiency (especially on
sensing that Roving diameter of 27mm can be another: they have the same bobbins should be increased. long roving frames) and, if
frames are critical in used to reduce the gauge angle at the delivery of the This is only partially true: a done manually, can damage
modern spinning mills have between nipping points. This drafting system and at the higher number of spindles the roving bobbins.
come up with state-of-the- guarantees a better control flyers' entrance for both the per machine reduce the cost
art models, namely FT6E and of short fibers during draft. front row and the back row of the investment as the Nowadays several options
FT7E in order to ensure effi- of bobbins. total required number of for automatic doffing are
ciency, reliability and quality. Marzoli drafting system spindles can be reached with available. One of the sim-
Their technical personnel can also rely on highly effi- Individual sensors ensure fewer machines. From a unit plest, most reliable and
have penned this article for cient cleaners for both top that each and every roving cost (cost per spindle) point fastest, automatic doffing
the benefit of the industry rollers and bottom drafting break is properly detected of view, there is an econom- systems is the one that
users who will now have cylinders. For top rollers and the machine securely ic advantage that stems from Marzoli has implemented,
more options to exercise. there are two options: rollers stopped, even in case of rov- the amortisation of the cost tested and refined in the last
with rubber fins and revolv- ing overlap around the cylin- of the head and rear stocks twenty years. With this solu-
The technical and techno- ing felt belts. For the bottom der/top roller. On the other on a higher number of spin- tion in less than 3 minutes
logical features are as fol- cylinders there are rubber hand, if dust passed in front dles per machine. However, full bobbins are replaced with
lows: scrapers. These solutions of the sensors the machine the higher the number of empty tubes and the
guarantee that at every turn would not stop, it would con- spindles, the smaller are the machine is restarted. During
Drive system both top rollers and bottom tinue to run. Individual sen- benefit stemming from a fur- the new doffing cycle, the full
The FT6E and FT7E are cylinders are always cleaned. sors also make suction not ther increase in machine's bobbins are forwarded to the
This, along with the high required. This, along with the length. Machines exceeding transport system which car-
driven by independent drives quality of each and every IE3 motors and an overall a certain number of spindles ries the packages to the
for the drafting system, the component, entails the per- design meant to minimize also entail higher costs for spinning frames.
flyers, the spindles and the fect control of fibers during energy consumption, allows electronics and drafting
bobbin rail. Every drive is draft and top quality of the you to save up to 4 Kwh. drive. Last but not least a Also a semiautomatic
coordinated by the central roving. higher number of spindles doffing option of the machine
CPU which ensures perfect Roving tension is kept per machine causes a reduc- is available. With this version
synchronisation of all the False twist area constant within a pre-set tion in efficiency. ergonomics has been sub-
movements involved in bob- As bobbins on modern range through sensors that stantially improved if com-
bin formation. constantly monitor roving's The FT6E (110mm pared to standard manual-
roving frames are arranged fluctuations between the gauge) can reach 224 spin- doffing machines. After bob-
The spindles drive is a in two rows, rovings can delivery of the drafting sys- dles and produce bobbins of bin formation is completed,
group drive where motion is have different angles at the tem and the flyer's top and 16" x 6". The FT7E (130mm the bobbin rail lowers and
transmitted through toothed delivery of the drafting sys- adjust the speed of the spin- gauge) has a spindlage up to tilts out for an easy bobbin
belts. In traditional machines tem and at the entrance of dles accordingly. These sen- 168 spindles and can pro- collection.
spindles are moved by one the flyers' top. It has been sors play an important role in duce packages of 16" x 7".
motor which, through a long argued that these different ensuring that there are no These numbers represent Furthermore, there is a
shaft, transmits motion to angles can entail differences false drafts in the roving and the limit in terms of number parking rail in front of the
bevel gears which drive pul- in the spinning triangle at that roving breaks are kept of spindles and dimensions bobbin rail with empty tubes
leys that drive belts which draft delivery and different to a minimum. of bobbins to maintain top so that substitution of full
ultimately make spindles tensions of the rovings efficiency standards. A high- bobbins with empty tubes is
rotate. A group drive allows thereby causing an uneven Winding area er number of spindles per as easy as possible.
one to substantially simplify take up of twist and varia- It is argued that to machine would not give an
this transmission system. tions in roving count. additional benefit to the With the release of the
The drive comprises several increase productivity and spinner as the decrease in FT6E and FT7E Marzoli offers
motors, each one driving a On Marzoli machines all lower investment costs, machine efficiency would not also a third option: the rov-
limited number of spindles. be counterbalanced by the ing frame with the pre-
Each motor, through a pulley, reduction in the average cost arrangement for automatic-
drives toothed belts which per spindle. doffing upgrade. During doff-
transmit motion directly to ing the bobbin rail lowers
the spindles. Shafts, gear The flyers installed on and slides out horizontally,
boxes and bevel gears are Marzoli's roving frames are just like the fully-automatic
eliminated. made of ultra-light alloy and model. Besides permitting an
are dynamically balanced so easy collection of the full
Therefore it is possible to: that even when working at bobbins, this solution allows
high speeds, vibrations are an easy and cost efficient
„ Reduce maintenance kept to a minimum. Marzoli's upgrade of the machine to
roving frames can reach up the fully-automatic version.
costs: fewer transmission to 1,500 rpm mechanically
and the roving can be wound Energy Efficiency
components are needed on standard tubes, with a To succeed in the highly
diameter of 53.5 mm, or on
and lubrication is no thinner tubes, with a diame- competitive and globalised
ter of 48mm, to have a fur- sector spinners must min-
longer required. ther slight increase in bobbin imise production costs of
capacity. whom energy consumption
„ Reduce noise. represents an important
„ Reduce vibrations: lower The creel component.
The creel is equipped with
mechanical transmission Marzoli roving frames
hexagonal aluminum rollers represent an outstanding
entails lower wear of to prevent false drafts, a machine from the energy
very important aspect espe- consumption point of view.
transmission components cially when working with This machine is the only one
combed slivers. Optic sen- available on the market that
and therefore lower sors positioned between the does not need suction. In
rollers ensure that in case of fact thanks to the individual
vibrations. This enables sliver break the machine is sensors installed as standard
immediately stopped. Marzoli any roving break can be
the machine to work at roving frames can be fed promptly identified.
with cans with a diameter of
higher speeds. up to 24", which allow the No suction is required to
„ Increase transmission reduction of machine stops capture the broken roving
and increase the machine's and make it pass in front of
efficiency: transmission efficiency. the photocell.

system comprises only a Doffing This, along with the IE3
One of the most crucial premium efficiency motors,
pulley and toothed belts: the light weight components
aspects on modern roving (e.g. the bobbin rail in alu-
no shafts, no bevel gears minum) and an overall
design meant to minimise
are included. This allows friction and transmission
inefficiencies, entails an
you to reduce energy energy saving of over 4 Kwh
for every hour of operation.„
consumption.

Drafting system
Marzoli roving frames can

be equipped with a 3-over-3
or 4-over-4 top-of-the-class
drafting system. There are
two options for the cylinder
diameters: the standard
solution has a diameter of
32mm; however, in case
there is a high percentage of
short fibres in the processed

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June 2017 X Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition Techspeak 15

Trützschler And Voith Blend Uster To Make The Millionth Unit Of Quantum
Technology To Come Out With 3 Anniversary Edition Of Yarn Clearers
New Safety Standards For WLS
Sw i t z e r l a n d - b a s e d potential problems which
Trützschler and Voith consist partly of paper Uster is all set to may lead to unacceptable
Paper, a division of manufacture the mil- colour and shade differ-
Voith have jointly
developed a new safety stan- machine components and lionth piece of its Quantum ences. The Quantum 3’s
dard for wet-laid spunlaced
(WLS) nonwoven machines. partly of components from 3 generation of yarn clear- shade variation facility
It’s in the shape of standard
VN 3260/TN 0790, Voith nonwoven machines. The ers shortly. The latest ver- provides a separated
Paper. The standard will help
producers of nonwovens to manufacturing process for sion of the device offers clearing channel which
ensure safe and reliable
operation of their machines. wet-laid nonwovens is similar new features targeting deals specifically with
It also provides the basic
prerequisite for meeting to that for producing paper: intelligent quality manage- colour deviations.

expectations in respect of A suspension consisting of ment at specific fashion- When clearing limits
production and quality:
water and fibers up to 40 oriented applications, it USTER®QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition– are set, the shade varia-
Voith and Trützschler has been announced. The passport to a new world of yarn quality tion feature immediately
jointly developed the manu- mm long is passed over a starts checking the bobbin
facturing process for wet-laid Concepts like smart
and hydroentangled nonwo- wire on which a homoge-
vens. The machines on which
the materials are produced neous fiber mat forms. The limits and the yarn body cotton or synthetic outer. as it runs on the winding

hydroentangling or spunlac- have made it an attractive Fabrics with stretch and machine. After this, continu-

ing process produces bonded choice for more than a thou- fancy slub effects created in ous shade variations takes

nonwovens that can be tex- sand textile mills worldwide. this way continue to be over to monitor the entire

tured if required. Drying and Spinning mills need to act extremely popular in fashion length of the bobbin, based

winding of the nonwovens fast to take advantage of items like denim jeans, func- on reference data which

are done on other machine important fashion trends, but tional garments and sports enables detection of even the

components. The newly yarns which hit the spot in clothing. most subtle variations in

developed standard com- terms of aesthetic appeal The core yarn clearing mélange yarns.

bines various Voith and must also meet exacting feature uses powerful sen- “Clearing and colour-

Trützschler safety standards quality standards required in sors and algorithms to detect shade variation features

for paper & textile machines certain specialised applica- any such problems and have been appreciated. We

in a new document and thus tions. The latest edition of ensures that downstream are proud to have reached

defines the safety require- the Uster’s Quantum 3 yarn customers receive a stretch the milestone of selling one

ments for new hybrid clearer addresses both these yarn which perfectly meets million Uster Quantum 3

machines. The safety stan- demands, thanks to new fea- their specifications. Using yarn clearers. Yarn clearers

dard has already been set tures. the built-in smart limits facil- will help customers keep in

by International Organisation The core yarn clearing ity, correct tolerances can be step with fashion trends and

for Standardisation (ISO) as feature of the device is the set quickly and easily, so that always be a sound invest-

the basis for developing an first-ever automated solution any bobbins containing core ment for the future,” Uster

international standard, so as for monitoring and assuring defects are blocked and Technologies Product

to achieve greater impact at the quality of yarns with an removed. The device’s shade Manager Yarn Clearing

global level. „ elastane centre encased by a variation overcomes several Andreas Gantenbein said. „

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16 the last word Textile Excellence Bangladesh Edition X June 2017

Shopping Doesn't Make Us Happy "Stuffocation," a term coined
by British cultural forecaster
Do your clothes make James Wallman. It describes
you happy? Or, after a state where people's lives
the excitement of the are trapped in a vicious cycle
shopping spree fades, does of working and accumulating
your new stuff tend to lose products in order to keep up
its in-store magic by the time with the pace of con-
it's reached your wardrobe? sumerism. This fuels the
anxiety of modern life;
A new survey of interna- destroying the planet while
tional buying habits has keeping us from leading
found that we buy far more more imaginative, fulfilling
than we need and use. Two lives.
thirds of Hong Kong residents
admit they own more than Materialism is eating us
they need. The same is true
for 60% of Chinese and over inside out.
half of German and Italian
respondents. But the mind- So how do we stop it? Our
less overconsumption of
fashion has become our cul- survey showed that ads, pro-
tural norm. Online shopping
fuels this overconsumption. motions and 1-click buying
It's easier than ever to buy
new clothes by clicking functions are all designed to
through social media feeds
whenever you see something trigger impulse buying. The
you like. And it's a time con-
suming habit: the average When they're not shop- rate of buying increases the
Chinese consumer spends at ping, around a third of the
least two hours online shop- East Asian people surveyed more companies speed up
ping every day. admit feeling empty, bored or
lost. What's more, around delivery. Therefore, the slow-
The reasons for this are half feel guilty about their
emotional and social. For shopping habits, sometimes er the buying process, the
many, comfort buys occur hiding their purchases from
when people need to channel others for fear of negative lower the desire to shop. To
their anxieties. Shopping is a reactions or accusations of
way to kill time, relieve wasting money. Shopping break free from the cycle of
stress, and avoid boredom. does not make us happy. We
But the cheap thrill of buying already own too much and consumerism, we need to
something new dies away we know it.
pretty fast. Half of the people slow down.
surveyed said that the imme- So why do we shop? We
diate excitement of a shop- are searching for excitement, Next time you find your-
ping spree lasted less than a looking to increase our self-
day. After the binge comes worth, confidence and recog- self about to buy something
the hangover. nition. The American media
activist and advertising critic, new online, give yourself a
Jean Kilbourne, has com-
mented about how deeply few minutes to think. Sleep
advertisers insinuate them-
selves by exploiting basic on it, and see if you still want
human desires like friend-
ship, happiness and success it in the morning. When we
in advertising for profit.
switch off our phones and go
The result is
outside instead of into shop-

ping malls, we won't buy so

much.

The joy of life is ultimate-

ly defined by our relation-

ships to each other and the

connection we feel to the

natural environment. Instead

of stuffocating ourselves,

let's enjoy the genuine hap-

piness that stems from lead-

ing a fulfilled life. „

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